Install Automatic In-Tube roll-up doors
Face-of-Wall PDF | Under-Lintel PDF | Stand-Off PDF | Request a Quote | Industrial Door Insights
In-Tube Motor Roll-Up Door Installation Instructions
Step-by-step installation for SB3 in-tube motorized roll-up doors — the motor lives inside the roll tube and the door is raised and lowered from a wall-mounted control station. These instructions cover both bug screen and vinyl roll-up doors; the hardware and mounting are identical, and only the curtain material differs.
This guide covers the full motorized install: bracket mounting, roll-and-motor assembly, wiring, and setting the travel limits. It works alongside the printable mounting-style PDF that shipped with your door — always follow the exact fastener sizes and clearances in your PDF. The 120 VAC power connection must be made by a qualified electrician.
Hand-operated door? See the manual installation guide.
Step 1: Choose Your Mounting Style
Every roll-up door mounts one of three ways. The roll-and-motor, wiring, and limit-switch steps below are the same for all three — only the bracket/track attachment differs. Pick the one that matches your opening, then download its printable guide.
Face-of-Wall Mount
The tracks fasten flat to the wall face on either side of the opening, so the door is built roughly 8″ wider and taller than the opening to let the hardware clear it. This is the go-to when there's no usable jamb or you're mounting to a flat interior or exterior wall. The header curtain attaches to the outside wall with an aluminum clamp strip about 6″ above the roll.
Under-Lintel / Jamb Mount
The motor and idler brackets fasten inside the opening at the top of the jamb, within about ½″ of the exterior face, so the door tucks into the opening. This suits finished masonry or steel-framed openings with solid jambs. Because the motor sits inside the roll, the jamb must be at least 8″ deep so the roll doesn't stick out past the front of the jamb.
Stand-Off Mount
The door attaches to your existing sectional (overhead) door tracks using stand-off brackets — no separate wall or jamb fastening required. This is the choice when a sectional door is already in place and you want to add a motorized bug screen in front of it. Each side uses a minimum of four stand-off brackets, with a top header angle tying the assembly together.
Not sure which you have? Send us photos of your opening and we'll confirm the right mounting method.
Know the Parts of Your In-Tube Roll-Up Door
The motorized roll-up shares the same core assembly as the manual door, with an in-tube motor in place of the spring.
- Mounting Brackets — the motor-end bracket and the idler (non-drive) bracket support each end of the roll tube.
- In-Tube Motor — the operator lives inside the roll tube; the limit-switch knobs sit at the motor end.
- Roll Tube — the tube the curtain rolls onto.
- 6″ Brush Seal / Automatic Reset System — keeps the curtain seated in the track and resets it after impact.
- Windbar — horizontal stiffener that holds the curtain flat against wind.
- Curtain — insect-screen mesh or reinforced vinyl, depending on your door.
- Vinyl Weatherstrip & Bottom Foam Cushion — seal the sides and floor when closed.
- Control Station — wall-mounted up/down switch that operates the motor.
Before You Begin
- Inspect the shipment — note any crate or packaging damage on the freight paperwork before signing; exterior damage can hide concealed damage. Verify all parts against the packing list.
- Verify dimensions — confirm the door width and height against your order, and check that the opening is square.
- Confirm the mounting surface — jamb, wall, or existing sectional track must be sound and use the correct fasteners for the material. On jamb mounts, confirm the jamb is at least 8″ deep for the roll to clear.
- Plan the power — confirm a 120 VAC ±5% supply and that the control station can be mounted in an approved electrical box within reach. The power connection should be made by a qualified electrician.
Required Tools
- Tape measure and level (4 ft recommended)
- Drill / impact driver with a #22 bit (5/32″) for pilot holes
- Socket / wrench set and appropriate anchors for your surface
- Screwdriver for the limit-switch adjusting screws
- Wire clamps, voltage tester, and any wiring specified in your PDF
- Fasteners per your mounting style — the PDF lists exact sizes (e.g., #10 × 3/4″ for steel jambs, #10 × 1-1/4″ for 2″ track, 2.5″ screw to secure the roll tube)
- 5/32 shim washers and the 2 × 2-1/8 shim plate, chalk line, marker
- Ladder or lift rated for the opening height, plus a helper
Step 2: Mount the Brackets & Tracks
Follow the fastener sizes and clearances in your mounting-style PDF.
- Mount the two brackets level with each other across the width of the opening — if they aren't lined up, the door won't roll evenly. The motor-end bracket goes on the side noted on your order sheet, within about ½″ of the exterior face.
- Mount the idler (non-drive) bracket on the opposite jamb, also within ½″ of the exterior.
- Set the guide tracks plumb against the back of the brackets. Drill pilot holes through all four track holes with a #22 bit, using the 2 × 2-1/8 shim plate behind the mounting points as needed. Keep fastener heads from protruding more than 1/8″ into the track.
- Install the 6″ brush seal / automatic reset onto the track before fastening the tracks to the wall.
- Mount the header curtain — measure about 1″ in from the back of the guide, set the aluminum clamp strip so it just contacts the roll when closed, Gateway logo facing the exterior.
Step 3: Mount the Roll & Motor
- Start the motor end. Hold the idler end of the tube about 12″ below its bracket with the limit-switch knobs facing out. Fit the round nylon spacer onto the lower motor pin, run the motor wire through the slot, and insert the lower pin into the motor bracket.
- Seat the motor. Lift the idler end and guide the upper motor pin into the notch in the motor bracket, keeping the wire in the bracket slot.
- Seat the idler end. Slide the idler-end pin down into the idler bracket on the opposite side until it seats fully.
- Lock it in. Install the nylon clip on the upper motor pin, short side facing the screen, then drive the 2.5″ screw through the bracket. Failure to secure the roll tube can cause injury.
- Mount the control station about 4 ft above the floor, in an approved electrical box.
Step 4: Wiring
Pull the motor wire taut and clear of any moving parts, then fasten it with the wire clamps. Wire the motor and the incoming 120 VAC ±5% line to the control station per the diagram.
This connection must be made by a qualified electrician, and the control station must be mounted in an approved electrical box.
Step 5: Setting the Limit Switches
The limit switches set how far the curtain travels up and down. One adjusting screw controls the up limit and the other the down limit; the arrow on each switch shows the roll-tube rotation direction. Turn a screw clockwise to increase the run and counter-clockwise to reduce it — about five turns moves the limit by roughly 3 inches.
To set a limit, run the curtain in that direction. If it stops before the position you want, turn that adjusting screw clockwise to extend the run. If it runs past, stop it at the switch and back the screw off counter-clockwise until you hear a slight click (10–50 turns may be needed).
To reduce a run, always move the curtain away from the desired position and approach it in the direction of increasing run — that seats the limit accurately.
Safety Notes
- Qualified electrician makes the 120 VAC connection; the control station must be mounted in an approved electrical box.
- Secure the roll tube with the 2.5″ screw before operating the door.
- Keep the motor wire clear of the roll assembly and all moving parts, fastened with clamps.
Other Roll-Up Installation Guides
This page covers in-tube motorized doors. For hand-operated and high-traffic roll-ups, see the matching guide:
- Manual Roll-Up Installation — spring-counterbalanced, hand-operated doors.
- High-Cycle Automatic Roll-Up Installation — high-speed doors for high-traffic openings.
- Chain Hoist Roll-Up Installation — manual chain operation for larger, heavier doors.
Screen or Vinyl?
The install is identical — only the curtain material changes. For mesh weave, vinyl weight, airflow, and color options, see the full screen and vinyl specifications on our products page.
In-Tube Motor Roll-Up Installation FAQs
Do bug screen and vinyl roll-up doors install differently?
No. The hardware, tracks, motor, and mounting are identical. The only difference is the curtain — insect-screen mesh or reinforced vinyl — so a single install process covers both.
Do I need an electrician?
Yes. In-tube motor doors run on a 120 VAC ±5% supply, and the connection to the control station must be made by a qualified electrician with the station in an approved electrical box.
How do I set the up and down travel?
Use the two limit-switch adjusting screws. Clockwise increases the run and counter-clockwise reduces it — about five turns per 3 inches. Always approach the final position in the direction of increasing run to seat the limit accurately.
How deep does my jamb need to be?
For jamb (under-lintel) mounts, the jamb should be at least 8″ deep so the roll tube clears the front of the jamb. Face-of-wall and stand-off mounts don't have this requirement.
What's the lead time and warranty?
Typical lead time is 3–4 weeks, and 3–5 weeks for one to two doors during peak summer demand. SB3 doors carry a 1-year limited warranty covering defects in materials and workmanship from shipment.
Need Help With Your Install?
Talk to a real person who knows these doors. We'll help you confirm your mounting style, measurements, and wiring before or during your install.
Or call us at (866) DOORS26. Email sales@sb3doors.com.
Explore Options
- Bug Screen Roll-Up Doors — insect and debris control with airflow and daylight.
- Vinyl Roll-Up Doors — solid-panel separation for weather, dust, and temperature.
- High-Cycle Automatic Roll-Up Doors — high-speed doors for high-traffic openings.